Old Fort
Originally named Purana Qila, and sometimes referred to in historical documents as “Pandava’s Fort”, this massive medieval fortress in Delhi is now known simply as “Old Fort”. While ancient literary sources hint at a much older lineage for the surrounding area—traditionally thought to be the site of the fabled Indraprastha—the fortress in its current form was built in 1538 by the Second Mughal Emperor Humayun (1530-40 & 1555-56) to protect Dinpanah, his empire’s new capital. Humayun ruled from Old Fort until losing the Mughal throne to Sher Shah Suri in battle, forcing his withdrawal from India and subsequent military reconsolidation in Persia. Within a year of his incredible return to power in 1555, the emperor died at Old Fort in a tragic library accident.
The main gate to Old Fort is as massive and imposing as any Mughal structure though it must be pointed out, this fortress was constructed early in that empire and so lacks the over-the-top intimidation value found at places like Agra Fort or Red Fort.
Looking back at the main gate from inside. Oddly enough, we arrived at Old Fort while the medieval structure was hosting Delhi’s annual Sanatan music festival. Upon first glance we all saw the sign and misread it in the same way . . . amazed at our luck in arriving in time for a Santana Concert!
The northern gate or Talaaqi Darwaza, another beautifully rendered portal featuring multi-level entry.
Old Fort is an honest to goodness ruin as it seems only certain sections have seen significant reconstruction. This has no doubt contributed to the sense of its age and helped ensure the name stuck well into the 21st Century. I found the ruined sections every bit as beautiful as the restored ones.
This is one of the passageways within the outer wall of Old Fort. The walls are quite thick on their exterior face, unsurprising given the Mughal’s appreciation for and even dependence upon gunpowder artillery.
Qila-e-Kuhna Masjid (Mosque) as seen from the end of the passageway.
The facade of Qila-e-Kuhna Masjid. There’s a reason why I couldn’t get far enough away to fit the whole edifice into the picture . . . but I can no longer remember why. (Apologies!)
I haven’t mentioned this, but the interior grounds at Old Fort have been beautifully managed, the blooms providing a touch of color that nicely off-set the gray and sandstone coloration of the fortress itself.
This was the personal library of Mughal Emperor Humayun. In 1556 he was descending the stairs of this library, his arms full of books, when he heard the call to prayer. Hastening down the stairs his foot caught in his robe and he tripped, striking his temple upon the unforgiving stone. Humayun died three days later. An ignominious end to an accomplished medieval warrior, Humayun’s story provides a cautionary tale for all you readers out there who find yourselves completely engrossed by the written word. Please . . . watch your step!
A single, wide avenue runs the length of the fortress from the north gate to the one in the south. This view looks north from Humayun’s Gate and you can see the turrets of Talaaqi Darwaza in the background behind the Indian national flag.
The south gate is called Humayun’s Gate and lies in much disrepair though its grandeur can still be easily imagined by what remains.
The western wall of Old Fort is protected by a moat and slope, providing a most picturesque view of the beautiful fortress.
Following his untimely death in 1556, Humayun’s body was initially interred within these fortress grounds but had to be moved to Sirhind in the Punjab when Delhi was threatened by Hemu Vikramaditya, who seized the fortress and declared himself the new Mughal Emperor. Hemu’s reign lasted only a month before being defeated and dethroned by Humayun’s son and heir, Akbar (1556-1605). Once Humayun’s Tomb complex was completed in 1572, his body was placed where it has since remained.