Lodi gardens
This scenic oasis in the middle of New Delhi preserves architectural remains of the Sayyid and Lodi Dynasties, rulers of the Delhi Sultanate from 1414 to the Mughal conquest in 1526. Little architecture remains from this pivotal period in Indian history, making the tombs and ruins in Lodi Gardens critical to the understanding of pre-Mughal Delhi. The gardens surround the tomb of Sikander Lodi—the dynasty’s second of three sultans—within its own miniature fortress, as well as that of Muhammed Shah, the third of four sultans of the short-lived Sayyid Dynasty (1414-1451), which ruled before the Lodi came to power (1451-1526). Other ruins include a medieval mosque, massive gateway, and a Mughal bridge still standing after 500 years. All this sprinkled throughout a beautifully manicured and sprawling garden setting.
The miniature fortress guarding the tomb of Sikander Lodi (1489-1517) typifies military architecture of the period. So very different from the castles of Europe, the elegant walls of China or Korea, or the tiered bastions of Japan, the style is unique to the region and I found each, in turn, quite beautiful.
The inner gate leading to Sikander Lodi’s tomb remains intact, though with some modern preservation work done to maintain structural integrity.
The outer gate is a partial ruin, but enough elements—like this turret—remained to offer a glimpse into the tomb’s original grandeur. Fitting for the tomb of a sultan.
Athpula Bridge: A watercourse runs through much of the garden and was thought to have originally emptied into the Yamuna River. This bridge was constructed during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar in the 16th Century. The span not only still stands, it continues to be the primary northern entrance to Lodi Gardens, bearing the weight of thousands of visitors each and every day.
A view through the trees of Sheesh Gumbad, tomb of several as yet unidentified Lodi royal family members.
The mausoleum is currently undergoing restoration work but remains an impressive, pre-Mughal construct in the center of Lodi Gardens.
Across from Sheesh Gumbad is the larger Bada Gumbad and its attached mosque. The sun was shining brightly that morning, making it difficult to get certain shots, but this was the best I could do from the front.
Side view of Bada Gumbad. The large building was intended to be an elaborate gateway to the attached mosque.
The artwork within the medieval mosque is quite intricate.
View of the mosque attached to Bada Gumbad.
The ceiling decoration no less impressive!
Bada Gumbad from the south end of the central open area of Lodi Gardens. If you’ve noticed the birds circling in nearly every photo we took in Delhi, they’re Kites, a gorgeous bird of prey that seemed to be everywhere overhead!
The ruins in Lodi Gardens are far enough away from one another and interspersed with so much thick foliage, you get the impression at times of tromping through the jungle and happening upon these medieval structures. This was our first view of Muhammad Shah IV’s (1434-1443) tomb.
Muhammad Shah’s tomb bears a striking resemblance to that of Isa Khan Niyazi, just outside of Humayun’s Tomb, providing further evidence of pre-Mughal, Indo-Islamic architecture.
The second to last sultan of the Sayyid Dynasty, Muhammad Shah’s tomb grandly preserves his memory and remains a picturesque reminder of Delhi’s long and interesting history.